Earlier in the summer, when we came out of the first lockdown being in a particularly positive mood, I took the opportunity with my then girlfriend to book a beautiful holiday cottage in West Wales. The plan was to take the car and have a cosy cwtch getaway in November, avoiding the rain by spending time with coffee and books watching the weather roll in…
Unfortunately time has a way of changing plans by the time I was actually able to get away for the week three key things had changed, it was not December, I was now single and thus decided to take the bike in place of the car.
I was incredibly lucky as 48 hours before I was due to head to Wales the Welsh government updated there restrictions re-opening the border, if it hadn’t of been for this my first week off of the entire year would have been the week before Christmas. I was determined to make the most of the week away as it was duly needed and thats what led the decision to the last minute decision to take the bike.
The night before I umm’d and ahh’d as I hadn’t ridden since the end of September, making me a little apprehensive especially as there had been some snow across some parts of the route and the temperatures were likely to remain at levels where ice is a concern.
Intending to take the above route was a minor failure on my part in route planning selecting leave now at 22:00 the night before failed to how the fact that the A465 was closed. After ignoring the diversion, turning off, riding about 20 minutes out of the way to Crickhowell I did the sensible thing and stopped to have a drink and something to eat and look at the TomTom.
Looking at the TomTom there was a white road over the hill that I could take… this was maybe less sensible as 45 minutes later I was surprised after making a wrong turn to arrive back at Gilwern and the same junction where I had come off the closed A465. The white road had turned out to be a refresher in just how good the Versys is as a bike and how helpful traction control is, making me very glad I had thrown it on 3 (full intervention) at the start of the day.
Following the diversion this time I went back towards Abergavenny and then down towards Newport and took the M4, A40 route across. The whole way chasing the sun, unfortunately there is nowhere to stop as you pass Port Talbot in the average 50 as the sun and low-lying light fog over the town looked beautiful.
I arrived at Chapel House in the dark, a little cold and ready for a nice warm bath a glass of wine and a movie. Waking the next day I wake to a view of the sea out the front window of the chapel.
Following this wonderful dawn I spent the week trying to clock up the miles and explore the hidden coastline of the south west of Wales, so here are some of my favourite little finds…
Abercastle, Pembrokeshire
In 1876, The harbour was the landing-site of the first Atlantic Ocean single-handed sailing, west-to-east, starting from Gloucester, Massachusetts, by Alfred “Centennial” Johnson. More info about Abercastle can be found here
Tucked away just off the costal road north of St Davids, Abercastle is a hidden gem, you could easily drive through it without realising what you had missed. As you come into Abercastle from the south and see the houses hugging to the hills there is a little turning on the left before a sort of bridge. This little road is single track and hugs the cliff taking you out to the harbour masters house and the small carpark right at the harbours edge.
You won’t find any cafe’s or posh coffee but what you do find is a breathtaking views with a stream feeding down from the hills weaving round the carpark out to sea. Walk round the costal path round the headland and there is another little stone beach.
Dale, Pembrokeshire
Over a glass of wine I took a look at the TomTom for places round the coast to the south of the Chapel house, finding the St Annes Headland and Dale which looked like it might be a good spot to head out for a ride. I choose to follow the coastal road from Newgale to Broad Haven and then cut across the headland.
As I got off the bike in the beach carpark in Dale and looked at the dirty state of it the words “some people worry about using them too much, I worry about using it too little” went through my mind.I then walked along the beach and pondered that statement, and realised it worked better the other way round. This is what then resulted…
Dale Ditty
Some people feel that they use there’s too little, I worry I might use mine too much, no not that my dear, but never fear, I’m always happy to make you blush.
No I’m talking my bike, you know two wheels, handles bars and engine between my legs. I guess I’m just happy to be clocking up the miles from east to west.
From one shore to another, come rain or shine, it is nee ney bother, I don’t mind getting a little wet.
I know you like it less but I find I like it best when you join me from behind. No, not that my dear put your filthy mind at rest, I mean sat on the back nothing to do but watch the world go by.
On the way back from Dale, I took the coastal road back and stopped in Broad Haven for a coffee. It was lovely to see so many people out enjoying a walk along the beach, if you continue to follow the costal road towards Newgale you pass through Nolton Haven this is the perfect place to get a stunning sunset photo. There is also a good place you can stop on the road and get a good view across towards Newgale.
Poppit, Cardigan
Another glass of wine and look at the TomTom this time north of my location found Poppit Beach, having got my confidence back up with the bike worked out a little more challenging route through some more narrow muddy single track lanes. Coming off the A487 toward Nevern gave me more chances to practice using the bike in challenging conditions and the traction control to keep me on the road.
The beach parking was empty and seemed a little wrong so I skipped stopping at the actual beach and continued following the road towards Cardigan, finding the perfect stopping spot on the way into St Dogmaels just by the side of the road is a launching slipway and a couple of park bench’s.
Whilst taking these photo’s I sat drinking my coffee, I noticed in the house behind me there was a room right at the front of the house where a gentleman was sat playing the guitar. I sat for a while longer and wondered what it would be like having these views directly outside your house every day.
LLangrannog, Ceredigion
Last year whilst doing a training weekend with TVAM (Thames Valley Advanced Motorcyclists) I taken on a ride across the central Wales with the lunch stop being LLangrannog, it is a beautiful place and reminds me places like Clovelly, Devon. It has a brilliant cafe right by the front called “The Beach Hut” which unfortunately was closed this time of year but if you get a chance to go in season it is a worthy lunch stop.
If you look at the map above the B4334 has a beautiful pair of hairpin turns which are a good vehicle control challenge when the weather is dry and sunny let alone when its wet and muddy.
The only thing that you have to be careful with in LLangrannog is the parking, earlier up the hill there is a free carpark however the parking right at the front by the beach is full blown ANPR. Everywhere else I stopped in Wales whilst I was down there the parking was free out of season, a couple of local ladies very kindly came over to warn me so that I could pay for parking in time. It is a bone of contention with the locals the story going that the carpark was originally with the pub however someone purchase this pub as well as some others in the nearby villages. At the same time farming off the parking to an outside company based in Birmingham, which has no interest in the villages best interests.
On the way back from LLangrannog I cut across towards Haverfordwest which took me on the B4329 across the tops of the hills, the view although not sunny was fantastic and full of colour.
View North from near Tafarn-y-bwlch 
View South from near Tafarn-y-bwlch
Is it worth riding in Wales in December?
Yes, the days are relatively short which means that it gets dark and cold early. It is difficult to know if COVID was a factor or whether it is just West Wales out of season but most of the Cafe’s and pubs in the smaller locations were closed, this means if you are hoping to travel light you might want to think again. I would definitely get yourself a Thermos, it gives you a lot more freedom on stopping locations.
The weather was actually pretty good though you will still need to where decent all weather gear and your thermals, with the temperature most days being around 4 degrees.
What do you do whilst there in the winter?
For me this was a perfect opportunity to take in the beauty around in peace, most places were extremely quiet which made taking in the real feel and sound of a place much easier. From a travelling perspective this has acted as a perfect spotting trip enabling me to drop some pins on the TomTom for future trips find awesome roads and note some ideas for routes. Other than this read, and cook good food, drink wine and sit by the fire.
LazyModernTraveler 